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What fails on a house, why it fails, and what it should cost

Home/Roofing/Built 1940 to 1980

Roofing · By era

Roofing in homes built roughly 1940 to 1980

Mid-century roofs usually leak at the small parts first. Pipe boots, step flashing and old roof penetrations fail before the field of shingles does, and most of these houses are now on a second or third roof.

Quick answerOn post-war and mid-century houses the common roof problems are cracked rubber pipe boots, three-tab shingles curling at the end of their life, turbine vents with no intake at the soffit, aging step flashing at walls, and old holes from antennas and dishes. Several are cheap fixes. Check those before you accept that the whole roof needs replacing.

Below is every roofing problem we cover that concentrates in this era of construction. Age does not mean worse. It means a different set of failures. Houses of this period also tend to have copper supply, aging cast iron stacks, 60 to 100 amp panels and first-generation central air, so it is worth knowing what else may be due.

A single-story red brick ranch house with white shutters and a green lawn
A single-story brick ranch. On mid-century houses, pipe boots and three-tab shingle are the usual first checks. Photo by Roger Starnes Sr on Unsplash.

1Problems common at this age

Often DIYCracked rubber boot around a plumbing ventOne of the most common roof leaks and among the cheapest to fix. End of lifeThree-tab shingles curling at the edgesOnce curling is general, patching is spending money on a finished roof. Often DIYTurbine vents but no intake at the soffitExhaust without intake pulls conditioned air out of the house. Check your policyPrior storm damage that was never claimedOld, unclaimed damage can complicate the next claim. Leak pointStep flashing at a wall intersectionWhere a roof meets a wall, the flashing does the work the shingles can’t. Diagnose firstGranules collecting in the guttersSome loss is normal. A lot of it means the shingles are wearing out. Diagnose firstNail heads visible through the shingle surfaceExposed or backed-out nails are small leak points across the roof. Often claimableIce damage from a hard winter stormIce at the eave can back water up under the shingles. Check the holesSatellite dish or old antenna mount still up thereEvery bolt through the shingles is a possible leak once the sealant ages.

2What to check first

  1. Scan the pipe boots with binocularsThe rubber collars around vent pipes harden and split from UV long before the shingles fail. A split is often visible from the ground.
  2. Look at the shingle edgesCurled or cupped tabs across whole slopes mean the shingles are at the end of their life. A few curled tabs in one spot is a local problem.
  3. Check the soffitsIf you have turbine or box vents on the roof, look up into the soffit. Vents painted shut or blocked by insulation mean the attic has no intake.
  4. Look where the roof meets a wallStains on the ceiling or wall below a roof-to-wall joint point at the step flashing.
  5. Look for old mountsAntenna and dish brackets leave bolt holes. Note them so they are sealed or removed properly.

3Repair or replace?

What you seeUsually meansUsually worth
Leak at a vent pipeCracked rubber bootReplacing the boot
Leak at a wall jointFailed or missing step flashingFlashing repair
Curling on every slopeThree-tab shingle at the end of its lifeReplacement, not patching
Heavy granules in the guttersShingle wearAn inspection before you decide
Hot attic, turbines on the roofNo intake at the soffitOpening up or adding soffit intake
Not sure if it’s a repair or a new roof?

Talk to a roofing contractor who will check the boots, flashing and ventilation before quoting a replacement.

877-360-4657

4Questions

How long do three-tab shingles last?

Three-tab was standard through this era and rated around twenty years. Curling and cupping across the roof means the shingles no longer seal.

Why do pipe boots fail before the roof does?

The rubber hardens and splits from UV, roughly ten to fifteen years in, long before the shingles around it are worn out.

Should I leave an old antenna mount up?

If it’s not in use, have it removed and the holes properly sealed or patched, ideally when other roof work is being done.

Written by Jaylan Jones. I Like To Exterior Services earns a referral fee when a call connects to a contractor. See our business-model disclosure.

877-360-4657